JACK CLAIBORNE
Special to the Observer
So you think you know Charlotte? If you ride the vintage trolley from
South End to Ninth Street, you'll see a city you hardly recognize.
First, you'll discover it is surprisingly clean and pretty. The once
ramshackle railroad corridor has been primped and planted for eye appeal,
with attractive new trolley stations lining the route.
Second, you'll notice that properties along the way are either new or
recently renovated, converting one of the oldest parts of the city into
something startlingly modern.
Third, the crowds riding -- or waiting to ride -- the trolley suggest
that Charlotte has something distinctive to offer, like the cable cars of
San Francisco. The trolley adds charm to what once was a derelict part of
town.
What's missing on most days (Charlotte Trolley docents are only aboard
on weekends) is any hint that you're traveling through the heart of
Charlotte's history. Some of the city's most significant events, most
prominent citizens and most important industries once enlivened the
trolley corridor.
For instance, the railroad that carries the trolley from South End also
carried the first trains into Charlotte in 1852. Their arrival helped to
make Charlotte the center of the cotton-growing, cotton-ginning,
cotton-shipping industry in the Carolinas.
At Carson Boulevard, up the knoll to the west, stood the entrance to
the Rudisill Mine which, before the coming of the railroads, was the
centerpiece of Charlotte's gold mining industry and helped to bring us a
branch of the U.S. Mint.
West of the track beyond Morehead Street stood the mansion and
outbuildings of John L. Morehead, a planter and industrialist who gave
Morehead Street its name. To the east of the track stood the home of
Stuart Cramer, who came here to head the U.S. Mint, became a leader in
cotton manufacturing and helped to invent air conditioning.
On the east side of the track at Hill Street was the home of Samuel A.
Harris, an auctioneer and constable who was mayor of Charlotte as the
Civil War came to an end. He welcomed Jefferson Davis and the Confederate
Cabinet to town and later turned the city over to the occupying Union
Army.
Just west of the tracks at Stonewall Street, where the new Convention
Center stands, was Charlotte's first gas works, where coal was converted
to the gas that illuminated city streets, homes, hotels and churches.
On the west side of the railroad between Third and Fourth Streets stood
a long platform nicknamed "The Wharf. " From the 1850s to the
1910s, farmers brought cotton there to be weighed, sold and shipped.
The office of cotton broker Robert M. Oates, who built Charlotte's
first cotton mill in the 1880s, stood beside the railroad at East Trade,
where the old Convention Center stands today.
At Trade Street, where the South Carolina Railroad met the North
Carolina Railroad in 1854, the tracks had differing widths, requiring
everything going through the city in each direction to be unloaded and
reloaded onto other cars. When an ailing Robert E. Lee passed through town
just before his death, he had to change trains in the middle of the night
and in a pouring rain.
West of the track between Trade and Fifth streets, where the Bank of
America parking garage is today, was the city's 1870s ice house and the
Rock Island Mill, one of Charlotte's early woolen manufacturers.
Between Fifth and Sixth streets was the home of John Asbury, who ran a
planing mill and lumber yard, and beside him was the home of lawyer
Zebulon B. Vance, North Carolina's most beloved governor and U.S. senator.
There are lots of other bits of history to note: the trolley's
association with E.D. Latta and the development of Dilworth, a railroad
roundhouse that stood east of the trolley tracks between Second and Third
streets, the livery stables of J.W. Wadsworth that were west of the tracks
between Eighth and Ninth, and just beyond Ninth, the Charlotte Female
Institute, which gave College Street its name.
The trolley has restored life -- and raised property values -- along
the old rail corridor.
The parking lots that now line the tracks north of Seventh Street soon
will be replaced by new development. And ultimately, the trolley will
extend beyond Ninth Street, perhaps all the way to NoDa, connecting the
South End arts district with its rival to the north -- and writing another
chapter of Charlotte history.